Protect sand dunes, machair and shoreline habitats by camping on hard ground and taking all rubbish home with you.
Scotland's coastline is a mosaic of habitats that most of us treat as a backdrop — somewhere to park the car, unroll a tent and watch the light change. In reality it is a working landscape of sand dunes, machair, shingle, saltmarsh and rocky shore, and much of it is more delicate than the hills inland. The topsoil is thin, the growing season is short, and the wind never stops. In places a single tent pitched on the wrong patch of grass can leave a scar that is still visible a decade later.
The Scottish Outdoor Access Code gives us a generous right to camp on most unenclosed land, but that right comes wrapped round with responsibilities. Lightweight, low-impact, short-stay camping — often called wild camping — is the model. Campervans, big groups and long stays belong on formal sites. If you get that balance right, you can sleep out on a Hebridean beach or a Highland loch shore without anyone noticing you were ever there, and that is the whole point.
A dune system is a slow machine. Marram grass traps windblown sand, roots bind it, and the whole structure grows seaward over decades. Plant life on a dune is adapted to being buried; it is not adapted to being trampled. Footfall crushes the grass, exposes bare sand, and the next winter's gales carve out a blowout that can spread for metres. Camping on the flat, sandy shelves of a dune slack — those damp hollows behind the first ridge — does the same thing, only with a heavier footprint and for longer.
The better pitch is almost always behind the dune system, not on it: on hard ground, gravel, short-established grass or a rocky outcrop above the tideline. If you are on a beach with no obvious hard ground, look for a car park area just inland, or move on to the next bay rather than making do.
Machair is the jewel of the Hebrides and the north-west coast — a low-lying, flower-rich grassland formed on shell sand, farmed the same way for centuries with low-intensity grazing and arable cropping. In summer it hums with bees and holds corncrake, brilliant yellow rattle, orchids and the great yellow bumblebee. It also looks exactly like the perfect camping spot: flat, grassy and close to the sea.
It is not. Machair is a farmed habitat, which means you may be pitching on someone's grazing or crop, and its sandy soil is easily compacted and eroded. It also frequently sits within a Site of Special Scientific Interest or a Natura designation, where wild camping is not appropriate at all. Camp on hard, unenclosed ground — never on machair, and never in a field, fenced or not.
Arrive with a plan B and plan C, and be willing to walk an extra kilometre for a better spot. A checklist that works well on the Scottish coast:
The visible rubbish is easy. It is the small stuff that lingers: bottle tops, tent pegs, the plastic ring from a milk lid, a torn corner of a snack wrapper, cigarette ends, and the bright little squares of loo roll caught in the grass. Shorelines collect litter from elsewhere anyway, so take a bag and lift a few extra items on your way out. It costs you nothing and leaves the place better than you found it.
Food waste is rubbish too. Apple cores and banana skins do not decompose quickly in cold, salty, wind-scoured conditions, and they draw in gulls and crows, which then predate eggs and chicks. Freeze-dried meals and food decanted into reusable bags cut packaging before you leave the house. If you can, plan meals so you carry nothing out that you did not carry in.
Open fires have no place in fragile coastal areas. Driftwood and dried seaweed are part of the shoreline ecosystem and burn hot enough to scorch the ground and sterilise the sand beneath. Stoves are lighter, cleaner and safer in wind, and there is rarely a shortage of dead, fallen wood inland if you genuinely need a fire — though on most coastal trips you will not.
For toilets, walk at least 30 metres from any water, loch, burn or the sea, dig a hole 15–20 centimetres deep in soil, and bury everything. On sand, shingle, rock or machair you cannot dig a proper cathole, so use a bag and carry it out. Toilet paper goes in the bag too, or gets burnt in a stove flame and never in a fire that could spread.
Leave gates as you find them, keep dogs on a lead around livestock and nesting birds, and check for ticks in the evenings — Lyme disease is a real risk on the west coast and the Hebrides. Do those small things well and the coast will hold together for the next person who walks it, and the next few thousand after that.
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8/2/2024
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